Brake line trimming

Brake line trimming


Ok, let’s do something with the spaghetti brake lines on the front of the bike.

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Begin with the front brake (left lever) and pull back the rubber boot. Use a 8mm wrench to release the line. Caution: this line is filled with hydraulic oil. Try to minimize the time the line is open and we may not need to bleed air from the lines.

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Here are the tools you’ll need standing by to perform the trimming. The yellow blocks, ferrel and little brass end come with the brakes.

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When ready, remove the line from the lever assembly. Slide the rubber boot and the threaded metal nut down the line (out of the way).

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Position the line where it looks like a good length. I use the previously installed shifter cables as a guide. Note where you want to cut the hydraulic line.

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Install the yellow block around the line at the place you want to cut it. Use a clamp to firmly squeeze the block tight on the line.

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Place the yellow block assembly on something rigid and cut the line with a sharp utility knife. You want to make a nice, clean straight cut.

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Remove the clamp and blocks and install the brass ferrel. You can slide it down the line a little bit to get it out of your way.

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Partially insert the little brass line end piece into the end of the brake line.

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Reinstall the yellow blocks and the clamp on the line. The reason for this is to provide a good grip on the line while you tap the brass end piece all the way in. (at this point things will be pretty slippery with oil)

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Fully install the brass end piece as shown. I use a plastic screwdriver handle and tap on the brass piece until it’s fully seated into the line.

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Remove the yellow blocks and clamp. Push the end of the line into the lever assembly until it bottoms out inside. Slide the brass ferrel up to the lever and start the threads on the cable housing nut.

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Tighten the nut.

Note: when you get to the final tightness, the housing may start to turn with the wrench. I find reinstalling the yellow block with a clamp next to the nut will keep the housing from turning during final tightening.

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Once the nut is tight. Pump the brake lever a few times. Spin the wheel and see how effective it is in stopping. Most times I find that bleeding is not necessary. The true test will be during the final test ride.

After squeezing the brake handle inspect for any leaks.

Reinstall the rubber boot.

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Proceed to trimming the rear brake cable. The same steps above will be repeated.

When complete you can use ty-wraps to join/ organize your lines. Here’s how mine turned out.

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Wow! It’s starting to look like a bicycle!

Proceed to Rear rack and fender installation

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